The Science & History of Hair Oils: What Really Works?

For thousands of years, people have been using oils as a way to take care of their hair. Long before there were no shampoos, serums or even hair treatments, oil was the go-to solution for maintaining healthy hair. From traditional Ayurvedic rituals in India to ancient beauty practices in Egypt and Greece, people have relied on natural oils to nourish their hair and scalp. 

Today, there are still plenty of people out there who use various oils for reasons related to dryness, frizz, hair loss and scalp health. The only question is: "do they really work?" There are so many different hair oils on the market today that many people are confused as to whether or not they are effective, or if they are just a traditional way of caring for one's hair that has been handed down for generations.

That answer lies somewhere between traditional and modern science-neither completely obsolete but definitely the whole truth either. Current research indicates that some oils may help protect the hair shaft by minimizing protein degradation, while also promoting good scalp health; however, the effectiveness of these products is dependent on what type of oil you choose to use and how you align your application technique.

The History of Hair Oils: A Tradition That Spans Civilizations

Hair Oiling in Ayurveda 

For thousands of years, oiling the hair has been part of traditional Ayurvedic methods for maintaining healthy hair. The old texts of Ayurveda contain many references to the oils used to promote the condition of the hair and the health of the scalp, including herbal oils mixed with ingredients like Amla, Bhringraj, Brahmi, Neem and Hibiscus. Usually, oils are chosen according to the Prakriti of an individual and Shiro Abhyanga (massaging the head) strengthens the scalp, provides relaxation and improves general health.

Ancient Egypt and Beauty Rituals 

Along with a variety of oils, including that of Castor, Almonds, and Moringa, the use of hair oil was a significant component of beauty rituals in Ancient Egypt. Additionally, the oils helped prevent hair from becoming dry and damaged from the hot, dry climate. Overall, hair care was an important part of beauty in Ancient Egypt and was related to a person's status and grooming, especially if the person was from the nobility or royalty.

Greece and Rome 

Olive oil was commonly utilized in Ancient Greece and Rome as a natural hair and scalp conditioner. In addition to being an effective way to keep hair moist, olive oil also provided moisture to dry hair and helped protect hair from environmental stressors. Throughout these ancient cultures, oil-based grooming became a part of the daily self-care regime for many people.

A Shared Tradition Across Cultures 

While different cultures used different materials for this purpose, their principles were essentially the same - Nourishment & Protection gives healthy hair. The continuing practice of using hair oils through the ages confirms the value placed on this time-honored tradition of caring for  yourself and your hair.

The Science Behind Hair Oils 

Recent research has confirmed why hair oils are important today.

Hair oils usually coat or penetrate the shaft of hair, which will reduce moisture loss from hair and help minimize destruction from daily grooming, heat, or environmental damage.

There are two main types of hair oils:

1. Penetrating oils

Those oils that can enter through a hair shaft are known as penetrating oils. Coconut oil, which has a well-defined fatty acid content (primarily lauric acid), is one of the most effective penetrating oils because it penetrates the hair fibre more deeply than most other oils.

2. Sealing oils

Sealing oils are mainly responsible for coating the hair shaft. Many oils, including castor and jojoba, are considered sealing oils because they provide protection from moisture loss, improved hair smoothness and greater shine. 

Many hair oils also contain compounds that have benefits:

• Fatty Acids- Provide nourishment to condition the hair fiber.

• Antioxidants- Protect against oxidative (free radical) from exposure to polluted air, sun exposure and the effects of these surrounding conditions.

• Anti-inflammatory compounds- Aid in the establishment of a healthy scalp environment.

• Phytochemicals from plants- Some herbaceous oils used to promote the healing of damaged hair can be beneficial in providing additional protection or comfort.

As a result, these compounds provide healthier looking hair and a more balanced environment for the scalp.

How Do Hair Oils Work at the Follicular Level? 

While hair oils do not directly "grow" new hair, they can support the health of the scalp and hair follicles, creating an environment that is more conducive to healthy hair growth and retention.

1. Scalp Barrier - Support and Maintain

The protective barrier for the follicle is the scalp. By regulating moisture loss and preventing too much moisture loss, hair oils support and help maintain this barrier. A healthy scalp will reduce scalp irritation and allow follicle function to be normal.

2. Reduce Oxidative Stress

Many hair oils have antioxidants in them that work to neutralize free radicals from UV damage, pollution and other environmental factors.

Oxidative Stress → Damage to Follicles → Hair Thinning & Premature Hair Ageing

Ayurvedic ingredients like Amla, Bhringraj, Brahmi are valued specifically for their anti-oxidant-rich properties.

3. Improve Scalp Blood Flow

Massage of the scalp while applying the oil will stimulate blood flow to the scalp promoting oxygen and nutrient delivery to hair follicles; this is essential for supporting healthy growth cycles of hair.

4. Soothing Inflammation

Inflammation or irritation of the scalp can cause negative effects on follicle health resulting in dandruff, hair loss, and irritation.

Many Ayurvedic oils are made with herbs that contain Natural Anti-Inflammatory Compounds, including:

• Neem

• Bhringraj

• Brahmi

• Hibiscus

These ingredients will help maintain a healthy scalp.

5. Strengthening Hair Fibers

Many oils, such as coconut, penetrate the hair shaft and help reduce the amount of protein being lost. This not only helps to reinforce the hair shaft, but also makes the hair fiber more resistant to breakage and damage.

Strong Hair Shaft --> Less Breakage --> Better Hair Retention

6. Maintaining a Healthy Follicular Environment 

There are a number of different factors that must work together to help keep hair follicles functioning properly:

• Adequate hydration

• Balanced sebum production

• Reduce oxidative stress

• Good health of the scalp

• Sufficient supply of nutrients

Hair oils support many of these factors by creating an environment where hair follicles can thrive.

What Does Research Say? 

Many elements in hair-oils have been scientifically studied while many of their traditional uses still have not been proven through scientific study.

Coconut Oil - A recent study published by the Journal of Cosmetic Science has shown how coconut oil reduces protein loss in hair both damage and no damage. Researchers believe that the ability of coconut oil to penetrate into the hair shaft accounts for these results.

Bhringraj - Experimental studies of Bhringraj (Eclipta alba) provide promising evidence suggesting Bhringraj promotes hair growth, however, additional human studies are needed.

Amla - Amla (Phyllanthus emblica) contains significant amounts of both Vitamin C and polyphenols. Based on the scientific studies of the antioxidant properties of these two compounds, Amla has potential to protect the scalp from oxidative damage and premature ageing of hair.

While more large-scale studies need to be conducted, the research that is available supports many traditional uses of the above mentioned ingredients.

How and When to Apply Hair Oil for Best Results 

Pick The Right Time

Hair oil is usually best applied 30 minutes to a few hours before washing. Although overnight oiling can be beneficial for some people with very dry or curly hair types, it may not be the best option if you have oily hair or sensitive scalp skin.

Adjust To Suit Your Hair Type

The best way to oil your hair depends on various factors, such as the texture of your hair; how porous your hair is; the condition of your scalp; and any individual concerns you have about your hair and/or scalp. Some examples: If you have dry hair or high porosity, then you will benefit from using richer oils. If you have fine hair or oily hair, then you are likely to respond better to less oil being used.

Use The Right Amount Of Oil

Using more oil does not mean that you will get better results from the oil treatment. A moderate amount of oil that coats the entire scalp and shaft of your hair will usually suffice, plus it will help prevent the accumulation of too much oil on your hair and scalp.

Apply Gentle Massages

Giving yourself a gentle scalp massage while applying your oil will allow the oil to be distributed evenly, provide some relaxation, and provide you with a small increase in the local blood flow while applying your oil. Avoid using vigorous methods when applying your oil, such as scrubbing or scratching; these methods may cause you to break your hair.

Don't Leave The Oil On For Too Long

Leaving hair oil on for a long period of time does not necessarily increase the benefits of the hair oil, and if you leave it on for an excess amount of time, it may contribute to the build-up of product on your hair and/or cause irritation to your scalp.

Maintain Your Routine

More often than overly applying oil is to apply oil at regular intervals. How often you should apply or use oil depends on the condition of your scalp, your lifestyle, and the type of hair you have.

Understanding the proper method, timing, and frequency of hair oiling can help maximize the benefits of Ayurvedic oils and create a routine that suits your unique hair needs.

Why the Right Oil Matters 

Many people mistakenly believe that all hair oils do the same thing.

Actually, different types of oils have very different uses! For example, coconut oil, sesame oil, castor oil, and herbal Ayurvedic oils all have unique characteristics and purposes. An example is that if you have dry hair, then you may want to use coconut oil but it would not be a good idea for someone with an oily scalp to use that same oil.

There are several factors that affect the best oil for you, such as: your hair texture, your scalp condition, the climate, and your personal preferences.

If you are not sure what kind of Ayurvedic hair oil is best for you based upon your hair type, the benefits of various oils will help guide you. Our Complete Guide to Oil for Hair and the Best Ayurvedic Hair Oils reviews the most popular oils along with how to pick out the right one for your specific type of hair.

Why Application Matters Just as Much 

Finding high quality oil to apply to your hair is only half of the equation. 

How you apply the oil can also greatly affect your results and experience. For example, the amount of oil you apply, how you massage the oil into your scalp, how often you apply oil , and how long you leave the oil on your hair will influence how well the oil works for your hair and scalp. 

Many people tend to use too much oil, leave the oil on their hair for too long, or use improper techniques to apply oil, which may not even work for their hair type.

Various factors, including the texture of your hair, the state of your scalp, your individual lifestyle and hair problems, your climate, etc, can affect how well an oiling method will work for you. A light oil may be good for an oily scalp, while a heavier oil may perform better on dry or damaged hair. Using a light hand can also help evenly distribute oil when massaging the scalp, creating a healthy environment.

If you use the right type of oil in conjunction with the correct frequency and method of application, then long-term use of hair oils will assist in maintaining healthy, strong hair.

Conclusion 

Hair oiling is still practiced today because it combines effective hair maintenance and the history of the practice. Modern science has confirmed that many of the benefits of using hair oils are connected to science - such as preventing protein loss, improving scalp health, and protecting the hair shaft.

Unfortunately, there is no magic oil or overnight miracle that will change your hair in a day, so for long-term success with any hair oil, it’s crucial to use a consistent method, use the right type of hair oil, and use it properly.

The knowledge you gain will help you to choose the best and most effective hair care outlined in this post, depending on whether you prefer traditional Ayurvedic oil treatments versus modern holistic pharmacist-created herbal hair treatments.

Recommended Products by Blue Nectar:

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References:

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9231528/

https://ayurvaid.com/treatments/shiroabhyanga/

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/beauty/ancient-egyptian-hair-oils-perfect-for-boosting-hair-growth-naturally/photostory/128024783.cms

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9231528/

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9447460/

https://www.clinikally.com/blogs/news/penetrating-vs-sealing-hair-oils-which-one-is-best-for-you